Every model starts with glue, and picking the wrong one is how you end up with a Space Marine whose arm drops off mid-game. Here's the short version of which adhesive does what, so you can buy once and build happily.
Types of model glue
- Plastic cement (poly cement): for polystyrene kits, which covers almost all plastic Warhammer and scale models. It doesn't so much stick parts as melt them together, giving the strongest, cleanest join. Thin cements run into a joint by capillary action; thicker ones give you a little more working time.
- Super glue (cyanoacrylate): for resin, metal and mixed materials, where plastic cement does nothing at all. Gel versions are easier to control on big parts; thin versions wick into tight gaps.
- PVA: for basing. Sand, grit and flock stick to it, and it dries clear.
- Accelerator (activator): a quick spray and super glue sets instantly. Brilliant for awkward poses and impatient people.
- Clear-part glue: for canopies, lenses and gems, where super glue can leave a frosty haze.
Which glue do I need?
Building plastic Warhammer kits? Plastic cement is your main glue; keep a super glue handy for resin upgrades and metal bits. Basing? PVA. A 1/35 tank with clear parts? Plastic cement, plus a clear glue for the glazing.
Our picks
- Warhammer Colour Plastic Glue: the Games Workshop cement, with a fine applicator nozzle.
- Tamiya Extra Thin Cement: the scale modeller's classic, with a brush in the cap.
- Army Painter Plastic Glue: a reliable everyday poly cement.
- Colour Forge Super Glue Activator: instant set for super glue joints.
First build? Our guide to building and painting your first 40k army walks through assembly step by step. You'll want sprue cutters too, and modelling putty for filling gaps.
